Photo credits: Sabah Tourism Board
by Cassie Forsythe
It’s a Thursday routine. Moing’s* Day Out to Tamu Donggongon. She used to diligently go with Moing Kusai and it’d be their weekly outing besides their other routine of breakfast after church. With her rattan basket in tow, I am on standby as I know after it’s half-filled, it’ll be my turn to take over this fashionable item. Penan bags these days which have become a contemporary accessory, were also once a bag to haul the chicken. No trolleys, no canvas bag, a simple durable rattan bag. I still try to accompany Moing these days. Of course it was easier when I was in high school and only started class in the afternoon. It’s not that Moing refuses to go on the weekend to other neighbouring Tamu, but her sense of place is deeply rooted, in the tamu she knows, the one that knows her.
Nah Flo… olombon** sudah cucu kau… nah fresh gia ni, kasi dia bawa balik makan sama nasi. Sadap.
The aunties, always concerned about plumpness and next second, offering me more food. Asian much?
Truly to this day, in the heart of Sabah’s towns and villages, the tamu (open-air market) remains one of the most vibrant and culturally rich experiences for visitors despite the rise of supermarkets, malls, and modern retail chains. More than just a place to shop, tamu markets are living reflections of Sabah’s multi-ethnic heritage, local economy, and community spirit.
A Cultural Tradition That Endures
The word tamu comes from the local term meaning “to meet,” and that’s exactly what these markets represent: a place where people come together not just to trade, but to connect. Historically, tamu were essential social hubs where farmers, fishermen, and villagers shared news, bartered goods, and bonded through everyday life long before modern communication and retail existed.
Today, while market infrastructure has been upgraded in many places, the essence of the tamu remains rooted in tradition and community identity. These markets continue to be spaces where local culture is expressed and preserved through food, crafts, language, and interpersonal interactions.
A Treasure Trove of Local Flavours and Crafts
For visitors, the tamu offers a wide sensory feast:
- Fresh produce and rare native fruits like tarap, bambangan, and preserved food such as tuhau, bosou, items not likely carried in supermarkets.
- Traditional snacks and delicacies, such as pinjaram, local coffee freshly brewed, homemade rice wine (lihng).
- Handcrafted goods, from woven baskets and mengkuang mats to machetes and musical instruments, spotlighting local artisans’ skills.
A Window Into Everyday Life and Heritage
The tamu experience goes beyond commodities:
- Cultural immersion: Markets reflect the diverse ethnic tapestry of Sabah with their traditions visible in what they sell and celebrate.
- Living heritage: Foodways, handicrafts, and trade practices passed between generations help preserve Sabah’s cultural identity, especially in rural areas.
- Community ties: These gatherings aren’t just commercial; they’re social platforms where stories, customs, and friendships are shared, a slice of authentic local life often absent from curated tourist attractions.
Unique Events: Tamu Besar
Tamu Besar Kota Belud, for example, is more than a market. It’s a festival-like event that draws locals and visitors alike with cultural performances, displays of traditional attire, sports, and exhibitions alongside the usual trading, making it a signature highlight in Sabah’s tourism calendar. It’s typically held in the month of October.
Whether you’re a food lover, culture buff, or curious explorer, the tamu gives you a richer understanding of Sabah’s spirit and diversity, making it far more than “just a market.” So next time you’re in Sabah, wake up early and head to a tamu. It’’s where tradition still thrives.
Here’s a list of Tamu operating days. They typically open from 6am to 10am:
Monday
1. Kg.Pukak Kiulu
2. Kuala Penyu
Tuesday
1. Kiulu
2. Kuala Penyu (pagi hingga 2pm)
3. Pandasan Kota Belud
4. Melalap Tenom
5. Kudat
Wednesday
1. Ranau
2. Nabawan
3. Tamparuli
4. Kota Belud
5. Membakut
6. Dongongon
7. Sipitang
8. Dataran Bengkoka, Pitas
9. Tenom
10. Asia City, Kota Kinabalu
11. Gana, Kota Marudu.
12. Kudat
13. kg Manggis papar
Thursday
1. Dongongon
2. Keningau
3. Tambunan
4. Telipok
5. Sumangkap (Matunggong)
6. Tenghilan
7. Pekan Nabalu
8. Taginambur
9. Papar
10. Tandek Kota Marudu
11. Lok Kawi, Papar
12. Sabindo, Kinarut, Papar
13. Rosok, Kota Belud
14. Kg.Paris, Kinabatangan
15. Tongod
Friday
1. Sepulut
2. Teginambur Batu 10
3. Beaufort
4. Kundasang
5. Dongongon
6. Mesapol, Sipitang
7. Kg.Paris, Kinabatangan
8.Pekan Pitas
Saturday
1. Ranau
2. Nabawan
3. Kinarut
4. Matunggong
5. Putatan
6. Inanam – Bataras, Kolombong
7. Mansiat Sook
8. Telupid
9. Apin-Apin (Keningau)
10. Beaufort (6am-1pm)
11. Papar
12. Tamu KRT Kundasang Ranau
13. Sindumin
14. Pekan Pitas
15. Bukit Garam Kinabatangan
16. Melalap Tenom
17. Kemabong, Tenom
18. Bongawan
19. Kunak
20. Pekan Tungku, Lahad Datu
21. Pitas
Sunday
1. Tuaran
2. Sook
3. Kota Marudu
4. Kota Belud
5. Gaya Street, Kota Kinabalu
6. Tambunan
7. Putatan
8. Keningau
9. Tawau (6am- 12pm)
10. Telupid
11. Membakut
12. Papar
13. Sikuati Kudat
14. Tamu KRT Ranau
15. Menumbok
16. Tenom
17. kampung lohan ranau
18. Beluran
19. Kunak
20. Sandakan
21. Lahad Datu
22. Dongongon- Depan Petronas hingga Buhavan Square (pagi-petang)
23. Ranau (AIM)
24. Pitas
25. Kg.Bundu, Kuala Penyu (6am-12pm)
26. Sukau
27. Beluran
*Moing is grandparents in the local kadazandusun dialect. Moing Tondu refers to Grandmother and Moing Kusai refers to Grandfather.
**Olombon : chubby
