Contributing Writer: Viona Ezravioleta Alferd
Sabah’s tapestry is a vibrant reflection of the state’s rich cultural diversity, deeply woven with the traditions, beliefs, and identities of its many ethnic communities. Often expressed through traditional textiles such as the Rungus, Dusun, Murut, and Bajau weavings, Sabah’s tapestry is a living heritage passed down through generations. Each motif, colour, and technique carries symbolic meanings that tell stories about ancestry, social status, nature, and spiritual values.
1. Kain Dastar
Kain Dastar (Dastar cloth) is one of the most recognizable traditional textiles in Sabah. Known for its vibrant colours and shimmering gold metallic threads, the cloth creates a bold and eye-catching appearance. Each handwoven piece takes approximately three weeks to one month to complete, using a body-tension or back-strap loom with a continuous warp technique. The Dastar is originally woven by the Iranun community of Kota Belud, and it is widely adopted by other ethnic groups as ceremonial headgear. The square cloth, measuring about three feet on each side, is folded and styled differently to reflect each community’s identity. The Bajau refer to it as the Podong, the Iranun call it the Tubau, and the Kadazan-Dusun know it as the Sigar (or Sigah). Worn as part of traditional attire, this headgear is commonly seen during festive occasions and cultural ceremonies.
2. Jali Jali
Jali Jali is a special cloth created by talented Iranun weavers. Its design is simple and plain, without the usual patterns or decorations, making it easy to use in many ways. Traditionally worn by both men and women, it is now tailored into modern items like handbags, purses, or home decorations. A 2-metre handwoven Jali Jali can be quite expensive, often costing over RM1,000. Like other traditional fabrics, weaving one piece by hand can take up to two months.
3. Pajuntai
Kain Pajuntai was once a symbol of status, traditionally worn as a sarong by Iranun men, with only dignitaries permitted to wear it. Crafted by the Iranun weavers of Kota Belud, this cloth is known for its vibrant colours and floral-inspired patterns. Compared to other Iranun tapestries, the Pajuntai has a softer texture, made possible by the use of finer threads.
4. Ampik
The Iranun’s Kain Ampik, or Ampik cloth, is known for its striking diamond-shaped patterns. For men, the Ampik Samping serves as a mid-length sarong that is neatly folded as part of their traditional attire. Women, on the other hand, wear the Ampik Selendang as a shawl. The delicate patterns are crafted with silk threads, and it usually takes about two months to handweave a 2-metre piece.
5. Tinohian
Tinohian, also known as kain pis, is a traditional embroidery craft from Sabah, Malaysia, primarily created by the Binadan and Rungus ethnic groups of the Rungus community. It features intricate stitching using seven bright-colored cotton threads sewn onto textiles, often for ceremonial attire like men’s headgear. Tinohian embroidery patterns are often inspired by sea and nature elements, reflecting the coastal Rungus and Binadan communities in Sabah. This vibrant art form highlights Sabah’s rich indigenous heritage, blending cultural symbolism with skilled needlework.
6. Mugah
Kain Mugah remains an important part of Iranun cultural heritage in Sabah, crafted primarily in villages around Kota Belud. Over the years, its use has adapted to contemporary traditions. Today, it is worn as wedding attire by the Iranun and showcased in traditional dance performances during festivals. Traditionally, the cloth was woven on a back-strap loom called the Aulon in the Iranun language, though it can now also be produced using regular weaving looms.
6. Sabah Batik
Sabah Batik is a distinctive Malaysian batik variant from Sabah state, featuring vibrant patterns inspired by the region’s 30+ ethnic groups, traditional textiles, flora, fauna, and daily crafts. In Sabah, artisans use canting and hand-painting techniques while adding local elements that reflect the state’s rich culture and natural beauty. Sabah batik is very versatile; it can be worn casually or for formal events. Cotton batik is comfortable for everyday wear, while silk batik shirts are commonly worn by men during formal occasions in Malaysia. For a more elegant look, an evening outfit can be enhanced with a hand-painted Sabah batik chiffon scarf, and today there are many modern designs to choose from.
8. Inavol
Inavol is the traditional woven textile of the Rungus community in Sabah, known for its deep cultural significance and distinctive geometric patterns. This handwoven cloth is typically made using cotton threads on a traditional back-strap loom, reflecting the patience and skill of Rungus weavers. Inavol is commonly worn as part of traditional attire during cultural ceremonies, festivals, and important community events. Beyond its function as clothing, Inavol represents the identity, heritage, and artistic tradition of the Rungus people, showcasing Sabah’s rich indigenous weaving culture.
Sabah’s traditional textiles beautifully reflect the identity, creativity, and heritage of its diverse communities. From the shimmering Kain Dastar to the intricate Tinohian embroidery and the versatile Sabah batik, each piece tells a story of skilled craftsmanship passed down through generations.
Support and preserve this heritage today! Explore authentic Sabah textiles, wear them with pride, and help keep these traditional arts alive for future generations. Whether for fashion, collection, or cultural appreciation, choosing Sabah-made textiles is a meaningful way to celebrate local craftsmanship.
